Campbell Luke at New Zealand Fashion Week Kahuria 2023

A truly magical runway experience, Campbell Luke, the brainchild of the enigmatic Dr. Bobby Luke (Ngāti Ruanui), defied convention and transported us into a universe where tradition coalesces with avant-garde fashion.

Presenting "He Oranga Ngākau", a collection that's an eloquent testament to Luke's prowess in marrying his indigenous roots with contemporary design. More than just a collection; rather a poignant message — an overdue dialogue — challenging the archetypes of Western design. Every piece was a stride away from the Western canon and a step closer to the heart of Aotearoa.

With Luke's profound allegiance to Kaupapa Māori-led designs, this collection is not only a reflection of his iwi and hapu but an ode to the sprawling beauty and lore of Aotearoa. It was evident, through his craft, how much Luke values the importance of imparting knowledge on indigenous design culture. His innovative garments, coupled with compelling moving image and photography, became the vessels through which this message of cultural cognisance was delivered.

Having established his brand in 2015, Luke's commitment to sustainability has never wavered. His predilection for linens, natural fibres, and sumptuous knits solidifies this unwavering commitment, with meticulously chosen fabrics not only acting as an homage to nature but also serving as lasting heirlooms of craftsmanship.

The presentation which took place on the 29th of August was replete with motifs symbolizing harmony and peace. Dr. Bobby Luke himself eloquently stated, "Oranga ngākau situates ourselves and sensories that inhibit our awareness of the past. We are building up to what will be a beautiful moment." His words resonate deeply, creating an ethereal blend of retrospection, equilibrium, and restoration, epitomising the soul of the "He Oranga Ngākau" collection.

The runway was a mesmerising dance of free-flowing silhouettes. And while there was an undeniably ethereal undertone, powerful pieces like full-bodied sleeves, intricately quilted tops, and crochet maxi dresses held their ground, commanding attention and admiration.

The radiant smiles of critics and connoisseurs who bore witness to Luke's NZFW Kahuria presentation were evident indicators. Dr. Bobby Luke didn't just present a collection; he unfurled an evolution of thought.

Creating a collection that dares to question and redefine age-old notions, yet remains fiercely modern and distinct, is a Herculean task. But as Luke’s collection whispered and roared in equal measure, it was evident that challenging the norm is not just about rebellion; it's about envisioning a world yet unseen.