Kiri Nathan's Historic Showcase at New Zealand Fashion Week 2023
In the heart of Auckland, New Zealand Fashion Week (NZFW23) witnessed a momentous evolution: Kiri Nathan’s ground-breaking showcase, setting an indelible mark as the first Māori designer to grace its opening in the event's 20-year timeline.
Hailing from a rich lineage of Ngāpuhi, Ngāti Hine, Ngāti Hauā, and Ngāti Maru, Nathan is not just a name, but a legacy. Her masterful integration of the traditional with the contemporary, weaving the venerable harakeke fabric into modern designs, has made waves beyond New Zealand’s shores, resonating in the glamorous alleys of Hollywood. It's no surprise that elites like Chelsea Winstanley at the 2020 Oscars, Dame Jacinda Ardern, and even Barack Obama have been enveloped in her designs.
Kiri Nathan’s vision transcends the superficiality of mere fashion. She projects her craft as an embodiment of te aō Māori's reclamation in the realm of fashion. “This particular runway is our iteration of the way that fashion formed for Māori,” she commented. Shattering stereotypes, Nathan took a stand against the oft-muted perspective of Māori fashion being relegated to mere T-shirt prints. Her designs voiced the profound layers of Māori identity, striking a balance between post-colonial transitions and the traditional.
From the juxtaposition of westernised kākahu under the draping elegance of korowai to recalling the early 1900s when Māori clothing became exclusive to marae and sacred gatherings, her designs narrate a tale. A tale of change, adaptation, and an eventual return to roots, echoing sentiments that “we've never come back from that.”
Amidst the grandeur, Nathan's commitment to mentorship shone brightly. Young wāhine like Solita Turner of Ngāti Maniapoto and Te Rarawa, embarked on a journey from novice to seasoned weaver under her tutelage. Their invaluable contributions culminated in the intricately woven segments of the show.
However, Nathan's vision was holistic. Beyond the exquisite clothing was a captivating whakaeke, a magnum opus, conceptualized as a full-scale production. Orchestrated by Kura Waati of Hawaiki Tū and brought to life by spirited young dancers from Auckland Girls' Grammar, this spectacle recounted the tales of atua wāhine through dance, poi, and waiata. Ria Hall’s hauntingly beautiful original composition served as the heartbeat of this narrative.
The climax was poignant yet powerful. As a model draped in a pristine white skirt took centre stage, artist Graham Hoete, popularly known as Mr G, arose from the audience. In a silent yet profound gesture, he spray-painted a single word, ‘Tūmanako’. Hope.
Kiri Nathan's 2023 NZFW show was not just a fashion event; it was a cultural renaissance. A beacon of hope, shining brightly, illuminating the path for future generations.
