Robert Wun Debuts at Paris Haute Couture Week 2023

I have been following the work of Hong Kong based designer Robert Wun for a number of years, and was delighted to see that he was making his debut at Paris Couture Week in 2023. For his first outing on the Paris couture calendar, Robert Wun showcased a collection that blended the worlds of couture fashion and horror movies - so up my alley I almost died! Speaking to Vogue, the designer explained that the idea came from his own fear and insecurity when he first told his mentor, Bruno Pavlovsky, about his plan to present a show during couture week.

Models backstage at Robert Wun Paris Couture Fashion Week 2023

Wun wanted to offer something new and different in the world of couture fashion. He wanted to challenge the conventional notions of beauty and delicacy in couture, and decided to bring two extremes together to find a new balance. The distressing of his classic pleating, as well as the use of staining and dyeing techniques speak to the ‘fear’ and ‘horror’ that Wun was looking to communicate with this collection.

Drawing inspiration from the tailors and technicians who bring couture clothes to life and their fear of unexpected mishaps on the runway, he channeled these fears into a collection of garments that showcase technical skill and creativity.

I love the use of experimental techniques that showcased on this runway - burned edges on a layered silk dress worn with a burnt chiffon veil (very corpse bride) to a white floor-length peplum gown splattered with ‘red wine stains’ which were actually created using a beetroot based dye. This garment was styled with an elaborate appropriately stained hat and a cheeky glass of red wine, adding some camp value.

Wun is a huge a fan of horror movies and partially drew inspiration from Stephen King's "It" and the character of Georgie Denbrough, Pennywise's first victim. He incorporated elements of horror and clowns into his collection, showcasing intricate pleated designs that were both beautiful and eerie. There are also clear Hayao Miyazaki references dotted throughout the collection - one that springs to mind is an intriguing pyramid headpiece atop an ethereal floating gown, reminiscent of a floating clouded scene from Howls Moving Castle. I also thoroughly enjoyed the villainesque costumery of an all black raincoat with matching umbrella bedazzled with dripping Swarovski crystals which took over 600 hours of work to create. So moving in motion and incredibly reminiscent of a shadowed anime-style figure walking in the rain on a dark and stormy night.

Robert Wun's debut collection was a unique blend of beauty and horror, showcasing his technical skills and incomparable creativity. He pushed the boundaries of couture fashion and created a collection that will be remembered for years to come. The designer said he is already fielding hundreds of calls, and I am so happy to see that the name Robert Wun will be back on the couture schedule in July.

Congratulations to Robert on an incredibly successful first showing.